Grace Dent Reviews Simpson’s-in-the-Strand: A Celebration of Cosy British Joys
In this restaurant review for The Guardian, critic Grace Dent explores Simpson’s-in-the-Strand in London, describing it as a quintessential example of unfettered British quaintness. Located near Covent Garden, the establishment features the Grand Divan dining room, which Dent compares to a Hogwarts hall or a scene from Samuel Pepys’ London. The review highlights the venue's historical ambiance, dating back to 1828, and its excellent soundproofing that allows for clear conversation despite the bustling atmosphere. Dent praises the menu, curated by restaurateur Jeremy King, for offering a rollicking list of traditional British dishes such as rabbit terrine, beef rib served from a trolley, bubble and squeak, and spotted dick with custard. While noting that some items like the bubble and squeak are steeply priced for their portion size, the overall tone is one of nostalgic appreciation for heavy-hitting, comforting cuisine. The article positions Simpson’s not just as a posh canteen, but as a cultural touchstone that evokes sentimental memories of British culinary traditions, contrasting them humorously with French patisserie.
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Grace Dent Reviews Simpson’s-in-the-Strand: A Celebration of Cosy British Joys
In this restaurant review for The Guardian, critic Grace Dent explores Simpson’s-in-the-Strand in London, describing it as a quintessential example of unfettered British quaintness. Located near Covent Garden, the establishment features the Grand Divan dining room, which Dent compares to a Hogwarts hall or a scene from Samuel Pepys’ London. The review highlights the venue's historical ambiance, dating back to 1828, and its excellent soundproofing that allows for clear conversation despite the bustling atmosphere. Dent praises the menu, curated by restaurateur Jeremy King, for offering a rollicking list of traditional British dishes such as rabbit terrine, beef rib served from a trolley, bubble and squeak, and spotted dick with custard. While noting that some items like the bubble and squeak are steeply priced for their portion size, the overall tone is one of nostalgic appreciation for heavy-hitting, comforting cuisine. The article positions Simpson’s not just as a posh canteen, but as a cultural touchstone that evokes sentimental memories of British culinary traditions, contrasting them humorously with French patisserie.
The Guardian